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    06 April

    布达佩斯风雪行(上)

    准确说,欧游第一站该是维也纳,不过既然住下了,就该用更多的时间和篇幅,随时记下所看所思。而其他那些只能蜻蜓点水走走看看的,姑且写些流水帐好了。

    上个月还在yy该先去布拉格,结果捷克的签证要等一周,来不及报名参加学校组织的旅行了。本想索性等到明年春天,到外面晃上两三个星期。就在准备埋头读书的时候oebb(奥地利的铁路公司)推出了12月中旬前到布达佩斯,柏林和苏黎世的特价车票,心又不禁痒痒起来。比较了一下,选了布达佩斯,因为这段时间我只有周末有空,希望安排一次短途旅行作为整个欧洲游的前奏,体味一下自助行,也总结些在欧洲旅游的经验。

    为了充分利用两天的时间,我们买了周六上午最早的火车票,五点被闹钟叫醒,还想着到车上补觉。结果到了西站我就兴奋起来。维也纳的火车站没有检票检查行李这些复杂的程序,也不用对号入座,站台上完全就没有人管,只要在候车厅的信息牌上找到站台号就能自己上车了。事后证明布达佩斯的火车站也是如此的,只要按照车厢等级上对车厢,没有任何类似列车员、乘警的角色来控制秩序。座票分一等二等两种,一等车是包厢式的,我这样的穷学生当然是坐二等了,跟国内的软座车厢差不多,只是座位和过道宽些,可能是因为欧洲人模子比俺们大吧,呵呵。另外一个区别就是分了吸烟区和非吸烟区,老烟枪们坐火车也不会难受了。一路上晃啊晃,从维也纳到布达佩斯一共四站两个多小时,站台上没有任何小贩或是流动售货车,事实上每站就停2-3分钟,到站自己开门下车。车子开到奥匈边境的时候,总算来了oebb的职员开始查票,接着就有两国警察检查护照,然后匡匡盖章,btw,奥地利边境警蛮酷的,匈牙利的上来时我正被窗外的大雪吸引,没注意看他们,呵呵。

    9点多我们到了布达佩斯火车站,一下车就看到许多兜售旅店的人,zhu被拉住狂问一通“Japanese?”,得到否定的回答以后来了一串“Korean?”“From Hongkong?”“Taiwan?”“Singapore?”,我们笑笑直摇头。来之前已经在网上订好了青年旅馆,所以没有多浪费时间在这些人身上,直奔车站的旅游问讯处拿地图。问讯处的人告诉我们不要在车站换钱,这里只有1:194,出了站到处都有兑换处,一般都是1:243。出了问询处碰到一个很和蔼的老太太Vali,也是兜售旅馆的,看照片感觉还不错,家庭式的,还包匈牙利式早餐,价格跟青年旅馆一样,可是我们已经在网上付了定金,anna,zhu和gao要住两晚,准备第二天换到Vali的家庭旅馆去。

    在Vali的指点下,我们顺利找到了兑换处。原来匈牙利的钱叫FT,^_^,真受不了。在这里充分感觉到了欧元的坚挺,50欧转眼就成了10000多FT。我们后来的两天里就一直在狂FT,坐一次车需要145FT,买张24小时的交通票需要FT1100次,但是坐一个月车只要FT5200次就够了。门票一般是200-700FT,麦当劳的套餐FT850次,在餐厅里大吃一顿就要FT1500-2000次了。

    注:录旧文,原作于2004年11月23日。

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